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Flachau

Lasting Impression

Great Snow - in the East

Report

Once again the climate has played tricks on us. In January and February we were wearing sun cream - when it comes to Mid March we've got woolly hats, scarves and balaclavas out. Once again the policy of late snow in the east paid off. While Switzerland and France were closing their resorts due to lack of snow, we were having new powder snow to ski on every day. The snow was out of this world with it coming over thigh deep - particularly within the trees.

Most of the lower runs were thin on cover and the base was clearly gone before we got there. I think that they were probably just as low on snow as the rest of Europe before we arrived. Some of the runs that were closed could have undoubtedly been opened but were probably left closed because there were so few people there. In fact the only lift that has any sort of a queue was the "Six Pack". This is a six man chair that sits two-thirds of the way down the easy red to Flachau. We tended to avoid it rather than endure the (maximum) two minute queue.

We tend to like to ski unprepared runs and off piste but here we could ski powder snow ON-piste - early in the morning at least. One criticism of the area is that off-piste skiers are not very well catered for. Most of the area away from the pistes is tree covered and although there was great skiing in the trees to be had it was discouraged for environmental reasons - although there were many snowboard tracks running into and out of the trees. We had skied the area before and found that one of the old pistes between Wargrain and St Johan was no longer marked. This enabled us to have numerous runs in unprepared snow and mostly untracked. We had great fun. It required a short walk at the end and this kept most snowboarders off the snow and those that did follow our tracks only did so once since they had great difficulty in walking in the deep snow.

The whole area is well blessed with mountain restaurants and we never had any difficulty finding a seat for lunch - like I said there weren't many people there. The food was always good - of course some were better than others but the quality on a whole was very good. Prices too were very reasonable - not as cheap as Alpbach but cheaper than either Ischgl or StAnton.

We stayed in the Haus Christine and we could not have picked a better positioned hotel. It was right beside the chair lift and the Hofstadl - which proved to be the centre of the après ski. The breakfast there was a excellent buffet breakfast too.

Après ski was distinctly German in flavour and this is no real surprise when one considers it proximity and ease of road access. Apparently there is normally a significant Dutch contingent but many had cancelled due to the poor snow. Michelle was always the first to run out of energy on the piste but never seemed to be lacking in spirit when it came to dancing in the Hofstadl.

We nearly always take our hotels on bed and breakfast when we take our holidays since this gives much greater flexibility during the après ski. This was quite a problem in Flachau - not because of a lack or restaurants, but because the après ski was so good that it was difficult to be in a restaurant by 21:00 and most of the restaurants would not serve food after that time. It felt a bit like being back in Switzerland where we were used to this custom but where it tends to be less of a problem since après ski is invariably less colourful.

You will notice a total lack of pictures on this page. Once again we decided that the snow conditions were too good to be burdened with a large video camera - also the weather was mostly cloud and fog which doesn't make for great pictures.

It is a pity that the extensive and admittedly very good hype of the higher French purpose built resorts have removed virtually any British Visitors from this excellent ski area. The area has great skiing that could have been designed just for them. It is certainly more attractive than any French resort I have visited, including Chamonix and has a much more interesting atmosphere both on and off the piste. What it lacks is difficult skiing, from the door skiing and doesn't kill too many skiers - which the French resorts seem to do with sinister regularity.

Flachau will not be on our short list for next year but only because we have been there twice in three years. We will probably go there again in the future. Maybe with a few more people next time too.

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